How To Paint Over Stained Cabinets

If you've noticed the cost of new appliances, countertops, and cabinets, information technology's no surprise that renovating a kitchen is ane of the most expensive remodeling projects. While few homeowners notice ways to boost the look of a dated refrigerator or tired granite, transforming a kitchen by freshening the cabinets that brand upward most of the room'southward visual space is entirely inside reach. But at that place's more to the job than buying a gallon of your favorite color.

Read our step-by-step instructions and watch skilful painter Mauro Henrique demonstrate how to get the task done right.

How Much Does it Price to Paint Kitchen Cabinets?

Renovating a kitchen is i of the about expensive remodeling projects that you can take on, and replacing the cabinets can account for nearly 40 per centum of that cost.

Cabinets for a 10-by 12-foot kitchen can hands height $5,000—and your new cabinets may actually be of lower quality than the ones y'all're replacing. On the other manus, a few fresh coats of paint can go a long way toward transforming your existing cabinets for a fraction of that price. In fact, the toll of painting should exist no more than well-nigh $200, plus a weekend or two of your time.

Should I Pigment My Cabinets?

Before you head out to the paint store, however, examine your cabinets to encounter if they can be resuscitated in the first identify. Even the highest-quality pigment job can't revive cheap cabinets that have grown frail with age. Sparse veneers peel or delaminate, particleboard chiffonier bottoms or shelves sag or intermission, and hanging rails come up loose. If these are the issues you're dealing with, you'd actually exist ameliorate off replacing your kitchen cabinets.

Bold that everything is still in fine shape and good working order, let's examine some of the questions you lot'll need to address before you lot offset repainting your kitchen cabinets.

What Type of Paint Practice I Need for Cabinets?

Oil or latex?

Latex paints have been improving steadily, leading some pros to give up oil-based paints entirely. Because they dry quickly and clean up with h2o, latex paints are more convenient than oil-based paints. Just many pros still favor oil-based topcoats, arguing that they form a harder, more durable paint film and level out to a smoother finished surface. Latex paints as well have longer (upwards to iii weeks) than oil-based paints to fully cure. In the meantime, they're susceptible to harm.

Bottom line: Either oil or latex volition provide a good finish. If you lot practise use a latex paint, make sure it's a 100 percentage acrylic formulation, which offers greater durability and adhesion than vinyl acrylic paints.

Brush or Spray Paint?

A sprayed-on finish is the smoothest option, but at that place's a learning bend for doing it properly. You'll also probable need to hire the spray equipment, which drives up your costs, and yous'll have to mask off all the areas in the kitchen that could accidentally become sprayed, including countertops, cabinet interiors, and appliances, which is a time-consuming process.

For these reasons, we recommend y'all opt for using high-quality brushes instead. Invest in a good, 3- to four-inch-broad foursquare brush, whose directly ends will make brusque work of large, flat panels, as well as an angled brush in the 2½- or 3-inch-wide range, which will aid you lot get pigment into the corners of doors with molding and can coat door frames in one pass. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic bristle castor, which doesn't absorb h2o; oil-based paint should exist practical with a natural-bristle brush.

Can you only paint over cabinets or should y'all strip them?

When the existing finish is a clear coat, the best course of action is to strip the finish downwardly to the bare forest before painting. This eliminates a potential adhesion trouble between the old finish and the new paint.

Merely while stripping may be the ideal for purists, it'south not always practical or absolutely necessary. A thorough cleaning followed by light sanding should be enough to prepare the surface for new pigment.

Regular or fake finish?

If yous're open up to spicing upwardly your kitchen'south look, incorporating a false end can transform its fashion into shabby chic, rustic, provincial, or modern. Crackling glaze, which is available at paint stores, can, with very little endeavour, give your cabinets a weathered look. Just apply the coat over a dry base of operations coat, brushing in simply one management (thick for big cracks, sparse for fine cracks), and let it dry. End with a flat topcoat of the base of operations color brushed on perpendicular to the glaze. The pigment will kickoff to form cracks equally it dries, a process that takes nigh an hour.

Another rustic mode is the distressed look, which doesn't require a special pigment. This terminate is made upward of layered colors and spattered dark paint. When the paint is dry, to reveal the colors underneath, distress the finish by hitting information technology with a chain and lightly sanding in the spots where the cabinets get the about use.

Similarly, the antiqued, slowly aged wait can be achieved with some paint magic. Simply dip the tip of a paintbrush in a colour lighter than the cabinets and dab the excess onto a fabric until the brush is most dry out, then lightly graze the surface of the detail trim, corners, and seams.

On the other end of the spectrum is a high-gloss finish, which will transform your kitchen into a polished, modernistic infinite. To smoothen up your cabinets, paint a high-gloss clear acrylic varnish over your final glaze. This technique will add depth to the color and cover the surface of your kitchen with a glassy sheen.

Steps for Painting Cabinets

1. Prep the room

A successful paint job lies in diligent prep work, and the first few steps are focused on prepping the room and cabinets for painting.

• Offset by elimination the cabinets, clearing off the counters, and removing any freestanding appliances.
• Relocate tables and other piece of furniture to another room.
• Tape rosin paper over the countertops and flooring, and, to protect the rest of the house from dust and fumes, tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, stock-still appliances, and interior doorways.
• Mask off the wall around the cabinets.
• Fix a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves.

TIP: Fix Upwardly a DIY Paint Station

Chocolate-brown Bird Design

This makeshift jig provides access to all sides of a cabinet door to reduce reanimation during drying. Hither's how to fix it up:

• Span a pair of 2x4s at middle level between two ladders.
• Screw middle hooks into one end of a 2x4, where doors will be painted, and at the other end, screw hooks into both 2x4s to hang painted doors from.
• Add together corresponding hooks to the peak edges of upper cabinet doors and the bottoms of lower doors and drawers, where the holes left behind won't be visible.

ii. Remove the doors, drawers, and shelves

Gregory Nemec

• Exist certain to marking each drawer front and door with a marker to forbid mixing up the doors. The all-time place for this mark is backside the swivel location.
• Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors.
• Working from left to correct, elevation to bottom, label each i with a numbered piece of tape. Too, number the edges of cabinet shelves and the bottoms of drawers.
• Prepare aside the shelf-hanging hardware.
• At your worktable, remove the pulls and hinges and save what's being reused.
• On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed forest under 1 hinge.
• Encompass it with fresh tape.

3. Clean all the surfaces

• Clean the cabinet by spraying it with a degreaser solution and wiping it downwardly with a rag. This removes all the oils and grease that could prevent a perfect finish. If ordinary cleaners aren't effective, consider using a stronger cleaner like trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold at hardware and paint stores. Merely make certain you lot follow the safety precautions on the container.
• Once all the cabinet pieces are clean, rinse them thoroughly with h2o and permit them dry.

4. Prep the boxes

• Open the windows for ventilation and put on safety gear. Using an abrasive pad dipped in a liquid deglosser, scrub down all of the surfaces.
• Hold a rag underneath to catch drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe away the residue with some other clean, deglosser-dampened rag.
• If y'all're relocating the hardware, fill the erstwhile spiral holes with a two-office polyester forest or autobody filler.
• It sets in about v minutes, so mix but small batches. The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.
• Equally soon equally it sets, remove the excess with a precipitous pigment scraper. If it hardens completely, sand information technology smooth.
• Utilize a foam sanding cake to scuff the surfaces of the cabinet, drawers, and doors. This is a low-cal sanding meant to give the primer something to adhere to, so don't sand to the bare forest. Employ a tack textile to remove the sanding dust before moving on.
• Vacuum the cabinets within and out to brand sure no bits of dust mar the finish, and then rub them down with a tack material for extra measure.

5. Prime the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

Now it's time for the primer. If the cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer, which dries rapidly and seals knots and other surface defects that might drain through the topcoats. In about situations, however, stain-blockers shouldn't exist necessary, and an oil-based or 100 pct acrylic latex primer will work just fine.

• Pour some primer into the pigment tray and load the roller and brush. Using the brush along the edges and tight spots, and the roller on the big, flat surfaces, glaze the cabinet, doors, and drawer fronts with a coat of primer.
• Starting at the meridian of the cabinet, brush on the primer across the grain, then "tip-off"—pass the brush lightly over the wet finish in the management of the grain. Always tip-off in a single stroke from one finish to the other.
• Make sure to follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the castor. Where a rail butts into a stile, for instance, pigment the runway first, overlapping slightly onto the stile, then paint the stile before the overlap dries.
• While yous're allowing the primer to dry, launder your castor and roller sleeve, and pour the backlog primer dorsum into the can before washing the pigment tray.

6. Sand, caulk, and fill

Kolin Smith

• Afterward the primer is dry out, sand the flat surfaces with 220-grit paper.
• Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-dust sanding sponge. The wood should cease up feeling glass-smooth.
• Clasp a thin bead of latex caulk into whatever open seams. (The hole in a caulk tube'south tip should exist no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.)
• Pull the tip as you go, then smoothen the caulk with a damp finger. Fill any small dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty pocketknife.
• One time the spackle is dry (about 60 minutes), sand once again with 220-dust paper, vacuum, and wipe with a tack cloth.
• With a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer, spot-prime the spackle and any spots where the sandpaper has "burned through" the primer.
• Await an hour, then sand the primer lightly with 280-grit newspaper.
• Vacuum all the surfaces, and wipe them with a tack cloth.

7. Paint the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

You're finally gear up to pigment! If you're using roughly the aforementioned shade as the existing color, two coats ought to practice the job. You might even get abroad with one. Painting over a dark finish with a low-cal color is tougher and could crave three coats. Suspension out a new brush for each glaze.

• Pour some trim and chiffonier enamel paint into the paint tray and load the castor and roller with paint. Use the castor to cut in along the edges, button the pigment into the corners, and go out out roller strokes. Use the roller to utilise enamel paint to the big flat surface where possible.
• For the chiffonier interior, use the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-peel texture.
• Encompass the brush and roller with plastic numberless to foreclose them from hardening while you look for the showtime glaze to dry out.
• Between coats, sand the surfaces lightly, making sure to clean up the debris afterward.
• Employ a second coat to the cabinet. This glaze should provide a perfect, consistent finish without any sparse or lite areas where forest might show through.

8. Prep, prime, and paint the doors, drawers, and shelves

The strategy for prepping, priming, and painting doors, drawers, and shelves is the aforementioned as for the cabinets, except that all the piece of work is done on a tabular array to reduce the take chances of drips, runs, and sags.

• When painting paneled doors, start with the expanse around the panel.
• And then, do the main field of the panel, and terminate with the stiles and rail effectually the edges.
• As you lot proceed, wipe upwardly any paint that ends up on next dry surfaces to eliminate the gamble of lap marks.

Tip: To speed up the drying fourth dimension for doors, you can twist two screw hooks into holes drilled in an inconspicuous door border (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets). Paint the door'southward outside face and let information technology dry for an hour while resting flat, and so tilt the door up onto its hooks and put a drywall spiral into an existing hardware pigsty. Concur the tilted door upwardly by the screw and pigment the door'due south back side.

• When you're done painting, pick up the door by the screw and ane hook and hang both hooks on a sturdy clothes hanger.
• Suspend the door from a shower curtain rod or clothes rod until it dries.

9. Put back all the pieces

Kolin Smith

• Once the second coat dries, reattach the door and drawer fronts. Enjoy the fact that yous've given your kitchen cabinets a fresh new look without investing a lot of time or coin.
• Remove the tape over each door's number, install the hinges and knob, and hang them in their original opening.
• Replace the drawer pulls (or add new ones) and reinstall each drawer.

Shopping listing

• Degreaser spray
• Latex primer
• H2o-based trim and chiffonier enamel paint
• Roller sleeves

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchens/21097083/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets

Posted by: cavendercoluseld.blogspot.com

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