How To Finish Unfinished Kitchen Cabinets With Paint And Paint Recomendations
Lately we've been admiring DIY kitchen makeovers involving little more than paint applied to dreary wooden cabinets (run across Remodeling 101: 6 Kitchen Cabinets Transformed with Pigment for testify). How to all-time tackle such a projection on your own?
For advice, I turned to Albert Ridge of Ridge Painting in NYC. Albert, who grew up in County Galway, Ireland, and his crew are known in my northern neck of the metropolis every bit the most meticulous, pinnacle-of-the-line house painters effectually. Having watched them piece of work miracles on my ain battered midcentury kitchen, I asked Albert to give united states of america his acme tips.
1. Wood is the best cabinet surface to paint.
Unfinished, painted, and stained wood all work well, as does MDF, compressed/simulated wood. In truth, any material that yous can scuff upward with sandpaper so that pigment adheres is viable. That's why laminates aren't a proficient option–you tin can paint them, but it won't be long-lasting. Note that stained wood and glossy finishes have to first be de-glossed; I use a liquid sander, Wil-Bond, that'south practical with a rag.
2. The prepping is every bit important as the painting.
Begin by elimination the cabinets completely and and then clean thoroughly, making certain all grease and clay are gone. Remove knobs and handles and check hinges. Remove drawers and characterization so you know where each belongs. (Cabinets, too, tin exist entirely removed and spray-painted in a commercial setup, but that's a bigger job and difficult to pull off on your own.)
Carefully tape off paint-free parts, such equally hinges, countertops, and appliances. Use a wood filler to repair holes and imperfections—I like Elmer's fillers. Finally, sand cabinets: A rotary sander works well on flat areas. Hand sand the hard parts and don't overlook the cabinet door edges. If your cabinets are stained, utilize a 220 sandpaper. If they're painted and at that place's a rough stipple that looks like orange skin, use a 120-grade sandpaper before going to a effectively i. And if there's and so much pigment that the surface looks like crocodile skin, consider stripping—Stone Phenomenon is really expert.
3. Primer is, well, prime.
Subsequently you've thoroughly prepped, priming is crucial. All-in-one primer and paint products are to be avoided; they don't do either chore well. In truth, oil primer and paint attach the best and give the longest-lasting results on cabinets, but because of VOCs, oil is outlawed in many states, including New York. (Read our post All You Need to Know About VOCs in Paint.) A good alternative is h2o-soluble waterborne paint, such as Benjamin Moore's Advance, which is something like a latex-oil combo. But notation that it dries rapidly, so it'due south wise to add together an extender that allows you lot the fourth dimension to get a overnice end without castor marks. And if you're painting something plasticky or otherwise hard to paint, Stix is a good primer to know about.
Going from a nighttime cabinet to light? Consider tinting the primer to friction match the final color. If your colour transition is farthermost, you lot might instead add together a coat of underbody, such every bit Fresh Start, a thicker, less transparent primer that hides more than (and can besides be tinted). You can have the tinting done in the paint store; I asking 75 per centum of the terminal color, and so it's lighter but close. (For more than on the topic, read Dorsum from Black, Meredith'south repainting chronicle.)
Also note: Afterward your base coat dries, it's important to sand the cabinets all over over again—just not as aggressively every bit the first time.
4. Leap for quality paint.
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Y'all'll go meliorate coverage and results using quality pigment. I similar Fine Paints of Europe for oils and primers, and Farrow & Ball, Benjamin Moore, and Pratt & Lambert make good waterborne paints and latexes. (The one I utilise most oftentimes is Benjamin Moore Accelerate.) Two coats of pigment are essential for cabinets—you're building a surface. By the way, to get the nicest end, use a castor, a 2- to 2 1/2-inch fine bristle castor.
Whatever pigment you utilise, ventilate the room—direct a fan out the window—and vesture the masks they sell in pigment stores. And continue things clean: A painting project should not look similar a war zone.
5. Semigloss, gloss, or satin—the harder the cease the amend.
Matte paint on kitchen cabinets is impractical; I wouldn't even use eggshell terminate. You want a surface that'south durable and wipeable, so you won't be painting over again for at least a few years.
Go to Palette & Paints to find more than Remodelista favorites. And for more paint advice, see:
- How to Choose the Perfect Shade of White for Your Room
- Remodeling 101: 12 Essential Tips for the Perfect Paint Job
- Expert Advice: How to Choose Paint Like a Pro
Northward.B.: This mail is an update; the original story ran on September 25, 2015. The featured photograph is from Kitchen of the Week: A New Zealand Blogger's $600 DIY Remodel.
Source: https://www.remodelista.com/posts/painting-kitchen-cabinets-how-to-paint-kitchen-cabinets-5-tips-from-master-painter/
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